A period of four weeks provides the South Island with enough time to relax. Rather than speeding from Queenstown to Milford Sound and then making a photo stop before dark, you might take the more leisurely routes, stay overnight when the weather is wet, and spend an extra night in a place where the view justifies the stay. It is also long enough to include the well-known sights and at the same time discover the quiet beaches, short walks and small towns which make travelling by campervan truly feel free.
The route is intended to be a practical loop starting in Christchurch and is appropriate for couples, single travellers and friends who are using a small campervan since it is easy to drive, simple to park and comfortable for staying for a month. Although the distances may seem modest when looking at a map, the winding roads, the weather and the numerous attractive stops all take up a lot of time, so you should plan for fewer kilometres and better days.
Before you set off: build flexibility into the plan
The South Island rewards travellers who leave a little space between bookings. Four weeks may sound generous, but the weather can change quickly around the mountains, and the most popular summer campsites fill early. Book a few key stays in advance, especially around Aoraki/Mount Cook, the West Coast, Wānaka, Queenstown and Fiordland. Leave the rest open where possible.
A campervan that is entirely self-contained is especially useful on this route since it provides you with a greater number of places where you can spend the night, although this does not allow you to park anywhere. Freedom camping is allowed only in designated spots and the local regulations differ. You should use the official signs, adhere to the limits for staying and must never leave any waste. It is a good idea to go to paid holiday parks every few nights so as to have a proper shower, do your laundry, have a long connection to power and to renew your water and supplies.
When driving, limit your daily travel to about two to four hours on most days. The roads leading to Milford Sound, Arthur’s Pass and Lindis Pass are not ones that you should rush. In winter chains may be necessary for alpine roads, and in summer you should take into account the traffic, the roadworks and the fact that the popular parking areas fill up early.
Week one: Christchurch, the Mackenzie Country and Central Otago
Christchurch to Lake Tekapō
Start with a night or two in Christchurch if your arrival schedule allows. It is an easy place to collect supplies, get familiar with the campervan and adjust after a long flight. A thorough vehicle walkthrough is worth taking seriously: learn the heating, water, fridge, batteries and toilet before you are parked somewhere beautiful with no mobile reception.
Start in Christchurch and go inland via Geraldine towards Lake Tekapō; the journey is easy enough, though the change in the landscape is impressive. The green agricultural land is replaced by vast tussock country, pale blue lakes and mountain horizons. Since Tekapō gets quite busy during the peak season, it is advisable to arrive early. If you can, stay over for the evening because the Mackenzie region has a reputation for its dark skies.
Aoraki/Mount Cook and Lake Pukaki
Allow Aoraki/Mount Cook at least two nights; on the drive past Lake Pukaki there are sections where you can stop because the colour of the water surprises you. The Hooker Valley Track is the standard walk and can be done by people of a variety of fitness levels, although the conditions may change. If the weather turns bad, the shorter viewpoints and the Tasman Glacier area are good alternatives.
Take the second day as a form of weather insurance; even if Aoraki is cloudy the scene has its own atmosphere, but a clear morning can make a complete difference to the experience. That is the reason why a four-week trip is better than a closely scheduled fortnight.
Omarama, Wānaka and the Lindis Pass
Head south via Omarama, a section of the route that is enjoyable due to the presence of hot tubs and the vast open countryside, and then go over the Lindis Pass into Central Otago. The road can be icy during the colder months, so it’s important to check the conditions and not assume that a clear morning will remain clear throughout the day.
Stay in Wānaka for two or three nights since it offers the correct combination of lakefront walks, good food, useful services and access to the outdoors. If you’re willing to put in the effort, you can walk up Roys Peak, or otherwise go for a more gentle lakeside walk and conserve your energy for the weeks to come. It is also a suitable place from which to restock your supplies before travelling further into the lower South Island.
Week two: Queenstown, Fiordland and the deep south
Queenstown should have at least two nights assigned to it, even if you aren’t interested in adrenaline-packed activities, since the scenery is spectacular, there are a variety of walking possibilities and it’s a good spot for buying groceries, fuel and campervan supplies. On the other hand, it is one of the more expensive areas on the Island and it may be more sensible to stay just outside the town or to use a holiday park for convenience rather than look for a last-minute budget option near the centre.
Leave Queenstown and go through Te Anau towards Fiordland. If you can, arrange for three nights’ stay in Te Anau and at Milford Sound. The route to Milford is an important part of the journey, featuring mirror lakes, beech forests, waterfalls and mountain cliffs rising close to the road. Set off early, take with you some food and water, and allow yourself considerably more time than the navigation estimate indicates.
A cruise in Milford Sound is worthwhile regardless of the weather, since rain causes a number of temporary waterfalls whilst clear weather shows how large the peaks are. It is safer and more enjoyable to stay in Te Anau before and after the drive than it is to make the return journey all the way to Queenstown.
If you have the time, go on to Invercargill and the Catlins; it is a more tranquil section of coast and the journey slows down from there. The area around Curio Bay, Nugget Point, Purakaunui Falls and the coastal roads provides a pleasant change on from the more crowded mountain destinations. Although you may see some wildlife, make sure you leave plenty of space for seals and penguins and adhere to the local viewing instructions.
Week three: Dunedin, the Waitaki coast and the West Coast
Go north to Dunedin to see its historic streets, the wildlife of the peninsula and the good café scene. Though the Otago Peninsula is pretty, in some areas it is quite narrow, so take your time and be prepared to share the road with other drivers, cyclists and some wildlife. Most tourists find that a night or two is sufficient, although those who are particularly interested in museums or coastal walks might prefer to stay longer.
Start in Dunedin, pass through Oamaru and go north towards Timaru or Ashburton, then head inland over Arthur’s Pass. Since this section of the journey is a longer transfer day, you may want to break it up accordingly. Staying at Arthur’s Pass National Park for at least one night is worthwhile, especially if you like short alpine walks and spectacular river valleys. The kea are clever and curious when it comes to car parks so make sure that all your food is packed up and don’t feed them.
When you get to the West Coast you will have two or three days left. Hokitika has a relaxed atmosphere and serves as a good starting point, whereas Franz Josef and Fox Glacier provide access to rainforest, views of glaciers and coastal scenery all within one small area. The downside is the rain. The West Coast is wet for a reason, and this rainfall is in fact what makes the forest so rich and green. Take with you a good waterproof jacket, not just a light shower coat.
This coast may experience road closures and slips following bad weather, so it’s important to check the latest information before leaving and to avoid making plans that are so tight a detour could spoil the day. Although using a wellkept campervan with a full tank of fuel provides a sense of security, local road conditions must always be the deciding factor.
Week four: Nelson, Marlborough and the return to Christchurch
Start from the West Coast and go north via Punakaiki. The Pancake Rocks are an easy and worthwhile visit, particularly when the tide is high since then the blowholes may be active. Proceed to Nelson, which is a sunny area featuring beaches, galleries and access to Abel Tasman National Park. If you can manage it, stay there for two or three nights.
The best way to experience Abel Tasman is by water or on foot. If you take a water taxi, you can turn what would be a long coastal walk into a flexible half-day or full-day trip, something that works well if you are travelling with a campervan rather than following a set hotel-based schedule. During summer it’s advisable to book your campsites and transport as early as possible, while in the shoulder seasons, although there may be more availability, you should still pack for cooler evenings.
Enter Marlborough for some more peaceful days in the area of Picton, Havelock or Blenheim; the Marlborough Sounds have all steep and winding roads and protected bays, which cause journey times to be longer than they seem. The final part of the loop is very beautiful, particularly if you select a campsite by the water and leave the last few days unstructured.
If the coastal road is open and the conditions are favourable, take the route back through Kaikōura. Kaikōura is a good spot for stopping in order to see the sea, try some seafood and go on whale-watching trips. After that, the final journey south is straightforward. Wherever possible, try to be back in Christchurch a day before your flight, since this avoids the stress of a last-minute mechanical problem, a road closure that is delayed, or just not wanting the trip to end in a hurry.
Have the campervan serve the household for the entire month.
A month’s travel is not so much about packing ever more and ever more and ever more, but rather about doing so in a thoughtful way. It’s better to take layers rather than a single heavy piece of clothing since you might encounter hot sun, cold wind and rain all within the same week. Maintain a simple eating routine, refill your water as often as possible and make use of holiday parks when appropriate instead of seeing them as a failure of the adventure.
There are genuine benefits to using compact campervans when travelling around the South Island. They are simpler to drive on narrow coastal roads, suit the spaces available in town parking better and consume less fuel than a big motorhome. The drawback is that they offer less living space, so it’s important to select a layout that matches the way you actually travel. On a journey of four weeks, reliable heating, a practical refrigerator, solar assistance and sufficient battery capacity are much more important than those flashy facilities which will be used only rarely.
For more than 25 years, BANZ Travelcars has been helping independent travellers make trips like this work, offering compact campervans manufactured in New Zealand and providing direct local support whenever plans need to be adjusted.
It’s possible that the best days on this route aren’t the ones you’ve put the most effort into planning. You should leave room for the lake you never anticipated, for the wet afternoon spent reading in a warm van, or for the additional night by the coast when continuing on just doesn’t seem necessary. That is actually the true benefit of spending four weeks in the South Island.
